But we were selling 99 percent margaritas.” “That process works in a small speakeasy, where people are ordering different drinks. “Every time we got an order, the bartender would take the lime, cut it in half, squeeze it into a blender, measure the Cointreau, add simple syrup, then ice, and turn on the blender. A customer pulled Martinez aside one night to tell him that the margaritas weren’t tasty, consistent, or even cold. “All I know is that margaritas, and the frozen margarita, existed in 1938.”ĭespite having a full bar and cocktail menu from which to choose, almost all of Mariano’s guests ordered frozen margaritas, and soon, he says, his bartenders and blenders were burning out. ( Margarita means daisy in Spanish.) “My father does not lay claim to any one of those stories,” Martinez says. There are creation myths involving barmen, actors, dancers, and singers on both sides of the border, but the drink is most likely a descendant of the classic daisy cocktail, just made with tequila instead of brandy. The margarita has many purported but no confirmed origins. At first, those margaritas were concocted in blenders with a recipe-“high-dollar” tequila, Cointreau, lime juice, simple syrup, and ice-passed down from Martinez’s father, who had worked in a speakeasy in San Antonio’s Hotel Saint Anthony in 1938. Mexican music pulsed through the restaurant’s sound system, and, upon guests’ arrival, a host would invite them into a cantina for a frozen margarita. Mariano’s employed sorority women from nearby Southern Methodist University as greeters, and they dressed in big skirts and gaucho hats. “That’s when I got the idea of elevating Mexican food and making it into an escape experience.” “The minute you drove up, it felt like you had been to another place and time,” he says. Martinez had long been captivated by La Tunisia, a Middle Eastern–themed spot in Dallas with a sheik’s tent cocktail lounge, costumed servers, and a seven-foot-tall doorman decked in a fez. He found himself drawn back to restaurants. “While hippies were calling everyone capitalist pigs, I wanted to go into business.” “This was during the Nixon era, at the time of the Vietnam War, when young people were burning the flag, burning their draft cards, and refusing to go to war,” Martinez says. He returned to school for his GED and then earned a two-year degree from El Centro College, where an interests assessment directed him toward entrepreneurship. He had above-average but not-quite-star-quality talent, and in the following years, Martinez watched from the sidelines as peers like singer Trinidad López and golfer Lee Trevino made it big. “That wasn’t the life I wanted for myself,” says Martinez, who dropped out of high school in the tenth grade to pursue music and golf. When Martinez was growing up, his father worked eighty hours a week in his Dallas restaurant, El Charro. On May 11, 1971, shortly after opening, he would change the course of global cocktail culture with the world’s first frozen margarita machine. I felt like I was revolutionizing Mexican cuisine.” “I dressed like a Mexican revolutionary hero. “I put on a Mexican sombrero like Emiliano Zapata, with a bullet belt across my chest,” recalls Martinez, a Mexican American whose height and fighting weight at the time were five feet, six inches, and 120 pounds, respectively. He had been turned down by eleven banks, sold everything he owned, and secured a small SBA loan and funds from family and friends.įor his newspaper portrait, Martinez grew his hair long and sported a black mustache and goatee. Martinez’s restaurant opened on fumes for finances. He ordered a dozen cabrito to roast and, short on cash, convinced a local distributor to donate a few cases of Champagne. For the opening party of Mariano’s Mexican Cuisine in Dallas, Mariano Martinez sent out invitations printed on corn tortillas.
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